Cwm Gwaun, the valley of the River Gwaun, is a small valley in the middle of Mynydd Preseli. This isolated and wooded valley possesses a unique history. It is the stronghold of a particular Welsh culture and way of life that has survived for generations, and that continues to thrive to this day. One of the earliest signs of human life in Cwm Gwaun is the church of St Brynach. About 1,500 years ago, an Irishman named Brynach landed in Wales at Milford Haven before travelling north to the Cwm Gwaun. There, he freed the village of Pontfaen from the demons whose howling had made it impossible to live in the village. Cwm Gwaun is full of legends and folk tales, including popular stories about signs predicting death, like phantom funerals and corpse candles!
The community of Cwm Gwaun have kept these Welsh traditions strong, particularly those linked to the New Year celebrations. Residents celebrate the New Year on 13 January instead of 1 January. To this day, children of Cwm Gwaun and neighbouring communities go from door to door singing, receiving either sweets or money, known as ‘Calennig,’ in return. Along with much of upland Wales, Cwm Gwaun is also a place of Welsh folk singing. Visitors can still hear these songs being sung in Eisteddfodau, cultural festivals and competitions, and during Nosweithiau Llawen, variety evenings. If you are lucky, you may also hear some of these songs being sung in some of the valley’s pubs.
Tafarn Bessie is a local pub within the Gwaun Valley that has been run by Bessie Davies for over 70 years. The pub has been in her family since 1840. Bessie will often spend her time sitting by the fire and telling stories of the surrounding area. One can often hear local songs being sung in the pub.